NYC - PHILADELPHIA (OCTOBER 19-20)
19
Saturday morning. Out at 8.11 am, car, the city. Drive
along the Hudson river down to Holland tunnel to cross to New Jersey.
Some traffic but not too bad. Tunnel - two narrow lanes, it is hard
to imagine how it looks like with rush hour traffic. New Jersey - we
were not taking the turnpike (toll road) so we ended up at small road
with the traffic lights. After crossing the river we were quickly in
very different world. Vast network of freeways, swamps and waterways
(some boats and containers), train tracks in several directions. And
really sad look of those industrial sites, many of them abandoned
and/or run down. The same applied to many bridges, roads, and houses.
It looked and felt like very different life story. More less two and
half hours of uneventful driving. Except for some construction, our
drive into Philadelphia was very smooth and easy. We parked
underneath Independence Visitor Center. The beginning of our city
adventure. It is always sunny in Philadelphia. It was actually a bit
cloudy and breezy. Some maps in the visitor center. We also got free
tickets to the Independence Hall for 3.00 pm. We walked across the
street and wanted to see the Liberty Bell - there was really long
line of people - we gave up for the moment.
Our plan was to make a loop through the center of the
city and return for our tour. Obviously, walking. After we left the
overcrowded Historic area, we were in more pleasant and emptier
place. Some older buildings, some high rises ... nice and normal
city. Chinatown - few block that we walked through were pretty normal
- it was far from all the rush and bustling of San Francisco
Chinatown. Reading Terminal Market. Within the area of many hotels
and convention center. Deceiving looks from outside - just like a
store or something like that. Huge hall inside with hundred (s) of
small shops and relatively narrow walk ways. And ... very busy.
Interesting. J. had tuna salad hoagie, I had Philly cheese steak -
nothing really special, probably would not buy it again. City hall
building, we walked through and around - it is magnificent structure
in the middle of the city. JFK plaza with "Love" statue -
apparently one of the "must see" places, nice park, but ...
Continue ... many other buildings and streets. Some more interesting,
some less. I guess like any other place. Rittenhouse Square - small
farmers market, a protest against fracking, people with dogs. Really
nice park. We saw bunch of people with t-shirt saying "Urban
Dare". Apparently it is some type of race to fulfill bunch of
task (take a photo, find something) within the city (happens in many
cities across the the whole country). We saw many people doing this
monkey business (some walking, some almost running). Signs of fall
season all over the place. Continue. Antique Row - few antique store,
few other stores - maybe called like that for the character and
charm. Relatively narrow street lined with trees and old houses.
Peaceful and pretty.
Through and around the historic park, quiet streets and
busy streets. Printing shop - demonstration of the printing.
Interesting. Some run down blocks and houses. Elfreth's Alley - short
and narrow street - apparently the oldest continuously inhabited
street in America. A bit strange, small piece of history within
living city, next to it was high wall hiding the freeway. Back in the
historic park - walk through the security into the part of fenced
Independence Square. We were a bit early, small exhibit in one of the
houses (plant drawings). We did not get in for the tour of the
Congress hall. Sitting and waiting. The tour of the Independence hall
- small introduction and then two halls where all of it happened.
Interesting - they still have chair that Washington sat on. I am not
quite sure that those people would understand today's politics.
Unrelated note, the walk guide lady in Boston was not happy how the
Tea Party term is used today. Apparently there are many people with
the same feeling in Boston. End of unrelated note. We had time and
the tour of Congress hall was coming up so we waited few minutes. The
home of the US congress between 1790 and 1800 as Washington, DC was
being build. Nice place. Unrelated note, in Valley Forge the ranger
said that Paul Revere was half French. End of unrelated note. We were
done with the Independence Hall by 4.42 pm. It was across the street
from the Liberty Bell. There was no line and they were supposed to
close by 5.00 pm. We walked in and there were just two people in
front of us going through the security. It was a lot of security
there. Really necessary? We saw the bell. Walk to the river front -
river, New Jersey across it, some big as. boats (army as well?), no
people. Walk back to the Historic park and go to the car. Getting
dark and rainy. Bunch of liars - It is always sunny in Philadelphia.
Drive across the river to our motel in New Jersey. There were no
reasonably priced options in the city. Nice day.
20
Sleeping in, some. Leave the motel and park few blocks
away at the diner. Unfortunately we only got mediocre breakfast.
Sunny, breezy, and really pleasant. One of the "must see"
things in Philadelphia was Fairmont Park and Kelly drive within the
park. And that was where we were heading. We crossed the Walt Whitman
bridge (and paid five dollars) and drove towards the park. Some nice
views of the city, few glimpses of the river and some really big
boats, city streets and relatively pleasant driving. As we were about
to enter the Kelly drive we found the road closed and blocked by
police car. There was some monkey business going on - 5K walk or
something. In several blocks we attempted to enter the park again but
found the barrier and police car again. (Los Angeles marathon all
over again.) We drove along the park (or in the park) - it looked
like pretty nice place. We drove through some areas that had some
really nice old houses - completely run down - it looked like some
parts of Detroit.
Laurel Hill Cemetery - we also attempted to visit it but
had to leave with just some outside views as we could not find the
road to get in. It was confusing and sad. We crossed the river and
tried to drive along the river but the road was closed. We had
enough. We drove to the park where we wanted to visit Japanese
garden, there was really cool picture of it in the travel magazine.
Found. Parked. Sad - the garden was pretty but nothing special and
really small. We walked around - they opened at 11.00 am - peaked in
and decided not to wait and just walked a bit around the park - trees
with colored leaves, fountains, hundreds of mums and other flowers
still blooming. Blue sky and incredible weather. Perfect fall day. At
that point we were done with Philly and drove away. About half an
hour to Valley Forge National Historic Site (Washington's army winter
campout site). Pretty straight forward drive compared to our driving
in the city. Park - surprisingly many people visiting. Visitor center
- map. Theater and short film about the park, history, and how they
lived through the winter here. After the movie we took a short walk
with the ranger to the site of few replica huts (there was over
thousand of huts). Really interesting and entertaining presentation -
also pretty incredible lecture into the history. See the hut - there
was a fella inside with the fire and short talk about the military.
Walk back and drive around the whole park (probably ten miles). Rock
monuments at places where different state armies camped.
Several replica huts all over the park, cannons too (do
not know if real or replicas). Quite a few statues of soldiers and
important people. http://www.nps.gov/vafo/index.htm We drove
across small covered bridge (twice - there and back). Rolling hills,
leaves changing colors, blue sky, sun, and amazingly picturesque
landscape - it was just great day. Washington headquarters and former
train station and few replica huts - that was next stop. Small
exhibit in the train station building (there is still track,
apparently used for cargo trains only). There was a guy telling a
story for free (no idea what that was about) - we stopped and sit
down and got "television game show" story). It was pretty
funny. Did you know that king George the third wrote a books about
agriculture (under the pen name). Always something new. House that
Washington lived in - nice exhibit. Drive. Time running out.
Washington memorial chapel - not part of the national park. We
debated the stop but decided to turned into the parking lot. The
church is still active. It was open, it looked pretty from outside,
it was incredibly pretty inside. We got couple of minutes when there
was no one else inside and it was almost magical - the architecture,
the statues, the stained glass windows. Something special. Walk
around a bit and leave. End of the park. Main road. Drive. Some
freeway, some toll road, some other road with lights and traffic.
Quick grocery stop in Bridgewater, New Jersey. Freeways towards New
York City.
Toll road. Few views of Manhattan. Swamps, freeways,
industrial sites - it was like the city dumped all the uglier stuff
across the river, the city needs all of that, just not on their
island. Horrible traffic as we were trying to get on George
Washington Bridge. Took forever, got dark, few glimpses of Manhattan
lights - looked really pretty. It is funny that the city is the most
interesting from the distance, in the night, and from the above. Slow
traffic on the bridge, after we paid 13 dollars toll. Sign Welcome to
New York. Finally leave the bridge, get on Harlem river drive and in
no time exit onto 8th Avenue (our street). Around thirty blocks on
that avenue - pedestrians, double parking, stupid people driving
stupidly. Finally - parking garage and our temporary home. Welcome to
New York City.